Pinhole camera

A pinhole camera is a simple camera without a lens and with a single small aperture - effectively a light-proof box with a small hole in one side. 
How a pinhole camera works: Light from a scene passes through this single point and projects an inverted image on the opposite side of the box.

JUSTIN QUINNELL

Justin Quinnell is a U.K. based pinhole photography artist and educator. He is a master at making weird and wonderous pinhole photographs like the ones below:

SOME OTHER PINHOLE IMAGES

Hand colouring/ tinting/ staining

'Hand colouring' refers to any method of manually adding colour to a black and white photograph (either to heighten the realism of the photograph or for artistic purposes). 
Hand coloured photographs were most popular in the mid-to-late 19th century before the invention of colour photography. 
Hand colouring can be done to any type of black and white photograph on any type of paper (if a shiny type of paper is used - like light sensitive paper for example - the shiny side can be peeled away to allow the colours properly soak). Any other forms of colourant can be used such as stains and tints. Keep in mind that not a lot of colourant is needed so don't use it to excess.

* A hand coloured daguerrotype by J. Garnier, ca. 1850

Sandwich printing

Sandwich printing (also known as negative sandwich) is when two different images are 'sandwiched' together to create a new image altogether - it's very similar to double exposure, however for sandwich printing you need to physically put the two different images/ textures together whereas for double exposure you can use two separate files then put them together.

Here are some of the images I researched: 

SANDWICH PRINTING: HOW TO

1. In the darkroom, take the two negatives (or a negative and a texture) and sandwich them together in the negative holder on your enlarger.

2. Work out the exposure time for the print (by doing test strips).

3. Expose your negatives onto the light-sensitive paper 

4. Develop the paper in the dev, stop and fix as normal. 

5. Repeat until the desired image result is achieved.

Emulsion lift

Emulsion lift images are created by literally peeling away a polaroid image from its original white backing.

These are some of the images I have found:

The creasing created after peeling away the photograph can be adjusted to fit the style of the image. Take this one for example, the edges have been slightly torn to fit the 'vintage' type of image.

Creases can also be adjusted to fit the flow of the image; in this image, the creases have been moved to fit the flow if the water. 

EMULSION LIFT: HOW TO

1. Take your polaroid print and set it aside for 24 hours

2. Fill a tray with boiling water (from the kettle). Fill a separate tray with warm tap water.

3. Take your cured (dry) polaroid and immerse it print-side-up in the boiling water for 2 to 4 minutes. When small bubbles appear on the surface of the print, then it is ready for the next step. *Keep in mind that different film types require different periods of time in the hot water bath.

4. Transfer the print from the hot water bath (after about 4 minutes or so) to the warm water bath and gently push the emulsion layer from the edges of the print to the centre using your fingers or a soft paintbrush. Carefully lift the emulsion and peel it away from the backing. 

5. Next, take a piece of card (bigger than your polaroid print) and gently slide it under your polaroid and lift it out of the warm water. The emulsion is very fragile at this point to be careful not to tear the image.

6. You can begin manipulating the image by purposely causing wrinkles and tears to add texture and interest to the image. When you are satisfied with the placement and manipulation of the image, let it dry overnight.

7. Once the image(s) is flat and dry, you can manipulate it further by applying watercolours, pastel etc. to enhance the image.

My emulsion lifts:

Before and after

Before and after